Oaxaca San Isidro Zoquiapam

The Red 5 de Diciembre network emerged amidst a time of crisis. In 2014, roya swept through La Cañada, crippling production and driving international buyers away. On December 5th, 13 community-based groups came together to chart a new course—uniting 1,300 small indigenous producers under a single organization.

Over the next six years, members invested in selective harvesting and specialty processing, building confidence in higher-value coffees and steadily expanding their membership. They earned organic certification along the way, but specialty premiums remained elusive until 2020, when Red 5 partnered with Ensembles de Café. With guidance from their cupping team, producers began separating their very best lots, laying a model for quality that continues to define the group today.

COUNTRY CONTEXT

Coffee has been part of Mexico’s agricultural landscape since the 18th century, and always inextricably entangled with land politics. Production grew steadily through the 20th century, culminating in the 1970s when a farmer-friendly government expanded credit and extension services to smallholders. Over the next two decades, exports surged as farmers planted coffee across the southern states of Chiapas and Oaxaca.

That boom was short-lived. By the 1980s, Mexico’s debt crisis forced the government to withdraw support programs. Credit evaporated, prices collapsed, and farmers were left exposed just as roya and peso volatility added new pressures. In this vacuum, coyotes—middlemen who aggregated parchment from household-level producers—rose to dominance. Their networks remain central to Mexico’s coffee trade, ensuring volumes flow to market at the expense of farmer margins and traceability.

Today, Mexico’s coffee economy is still fragmented. Larger estates, concentrated around Veracruz and Puebla, produce significant volume. But the heart of specialty lies with the millions of smallholders in Chiapas and Oaxaca, where steep, high-altitude plots are farmed largely by indigenous communities.

For these smallholders, the path to market rarely runs through cooperative structures of the kind seen elsewhere. Formal coops exist, but operate at a commercial-container scale and offer little connection to household-level producers. Instead, coffee moves through layers of aggregation, typically beginning with coyotes at the farmgate and extending upward through larger intermediaries to exporters. Increasingly, though, regional associations and independent organizations are experimenting with new models.

Domestic consumption is also on the rise, with specialty shops proliferating in cities and reshaping how coffee is valued inside the country. Mexico’s future in coffee rests on this tension: a system still dominated by intermediaries, yet slowly bending toward transparency and smallholder recognitio

Location:  La Cañada, Oaxaca,Mexico
Producer: Red 5 de Diciembre, San Isidro Zoquiapam 
Varietal:    Typica, Bourbon, Caturra, Mundo Novo
Process:   Fully washed
Altitude:   1,800 - 1,900